I lived in Vancouver for two years (1979-1981) as a graduate student at UBC. These were two of the most enjoyable years of my life, and I still have very fond memories of the city. In fact, in terms of location and natural beauty, I consider it the most beautiful city in North America.
Here are some of my favorite spots to spend time in Vancouver, for those of you who will be attending ICCV'2001. As you will notice, almost all of these are outdoor sites (parks, hikes, gardens, ...) You can find more information on most of these sights at the Tourism Vancouver Web site or in travel books. Get a good map if you are planning to drive to any of the more remote locations (e.g., North Shore hikes).
Vancouver also has the usual indoor attractions (museums, shopping malls, impressive architecture like the Courthouse), but you will have to look elsewhere on the Web (like Tourism Vancouver) to find out about these. It's just not where my heart is.
I have divided my descriptions into 4 main sections: Downtown / West End; Vancouver Parks; North Shore Hikes; and Further Afield.
Map 1: Downtown Vancouver (West End)
Stanley Park is I think the must-see highlight of Vancouver. Walking all the way around the Seawall (which takes several hours) gives you magnificent views of the downtown (West End), the working harbor, the North Shore mountains, English Bay and Burrard Inlet, and vistas out to the islands. A faster alternative is to rent a bicycle (I'm not sure where, but must be easy to find), or even to drive around with a few scenic stops.
If you must stop at only a few points, be sure to see the Totem Poles and the vistas south (downtown) and north (walk behind the poles to the other side of the peninsula).
The Totem Poles and the view south towards downtown and West End
The 9 O'Clock gun is not worth a stop, but was the subject of one of the UBC Engineering Week pranks. According to the story, park groundskeepers discovered the gun missing one morning, with just a huge hole where it used to be and a large pile of dirt next to it. They couldn't figure out how someone had managed to "steal" a multi-ton piece of artillery. The theft make all the headlines. It wasn't until that afternoon when the workmen were instructed to fill in the dangerous hole that they discovered the gun hidden under the pile of dirt (the hole was just a distraction).
Prospect Point under the Lions Gate bridge is worth a stop, but possibly not worth the hike if you are on foot. The Ferguson Point Tea House at Third Beach serves delightful meals with a stunning view.
Eero Simoncelli, Anandan, and Turner Whitted sampling the desserts at the Ferguson Point Tea House
As for other sites in Stanley Park such as the Aquarium and Zoo, I haven't been there in ages, so I can't recommend them personally. (Young kids will probably enjoy the miniature railway).
Granville Island is my favorite "people-watching" and "sights-and-sounds" place. Most cities now have their downtown markets (Pike Place, Faneuil Hall, Southside Seaport, ...), but Granville Island is one of the most authentic and funkiest. The produce and flowers are astounding (due to the proximity of farms in the Fraser delta), and the seafood is first-rate, as are the bakeries, confectioneries, etc. It's a great place to grab lunch. The best way to get there (from the hotel) is to catch the fun water taxi at the Acquatic Center just below the Burrard St. Bridge.
Granville Island used to be an industrial area, which made its redevelopment in the 70's even more exciting. When I lived there, the Emily Carr Arts College (worth a peek) was next to a steel foundry. There's also good performing arts on the Island, a brewery, and several museums I have never been in (since my time).
There are wonderful restauraunt (and shopping) on Robson Street, just a little north of the hotel. The Courthouse is a beautiful piece of architecture, and the new Pubic Library is also supposed to be impressive. If you walk all the way north to the Waterfront, you can catch a movie at the IMAX theatre at Canada Place, or take a ride to the top of the Harbour Centre (note the funky British spelling for all you Americans...) to get a great panoramic view (like Seattle's Space Needle).
Vancouver panorama from the top of the Harbour Centre
A little east of the Waterfront is Gastown, which has lots of live music, bars, and nightclubs (or did, 20 years ago). East and south of Gastown (but still withing walking distance) is Chinatown, with good Dim Sum restaurants (sorry, I can't recommend any personally). The Dr. Sun Yat Sen Classical Chinese Garden is supposed to be beautiful, but I haven't seen it yet (it opened after I left town).
On your way back to the hotel, you can walk along False Creek in the new Yaletown area, which is where Expo'86 was located. Yaletown is supposed to be cool and funky, but I don't know anything about it.
If you are looking for good places to run from the hotel, I recommend either going south to English Bay / Granville Island, or north-west along English Bay towards Stanley Park. To get to the first route, run across the Burrard St. bridge, then hook under the bridge (past some homeless shelters), until you reach the running / walking paths along False Creek. South-east will take you to Granville Island and False Creek, but I prefer north-west to Vanier Park, past the planetarium and maritime museum for stunning views of dowtown / West End and the north shore mountains. The second route is much simpler to find: just run down Burrard and then down the slope until you hit the water. Nice views across English Bay towards UBC and the islands.
I've already told you about Stanley Park, which is the highlight. Here are some more of my favorites.
Map 2: Queen E. Park, VanDusen Botanical Gardens, and English Bay (Burrard Inlet).
Queen E. Park is definitely worth a stop if you have a car, but probably not worth the bus ride if you don't. It has a wonderful flower and waterfall garden built in an old quarry, which is a very popular spot for wedding photos on Saturday. There is a good downtown and north shore mountains view (I swear the trees have grown up to obstruct the view in the last 20 year, but I'm probably just dreaming...), as well as an indoor flower conservatory (if you like that kind of muggy thing). Be careful when parking you car in the parking lot (and other "high-prowl" areas such as Stanley Park) not to leave valuables such as cameras in plain sight.
Queen Elizabeth Park: view from garden, and view of city skyline
This is well worth spending a couple of hours, especially if you are not planning to go to the Butchart Gardens near Victoria. There is a wonderful collection of flowers and trees, nice vistas, and a good restaurant for a light lunch meal. Paid admission.
If you are driving out to UBC (or into a really long walk), stick to the waterfront route: Cornwall Ave off the Burrard St. bridge, Point Grey Road, 4th Ave., then N. W. Marine Drive. You can stop along several points for vistas: Kitsilano Beach (crowded), a no-name park along Pt. Grey Road, and Jericho Beach Park, which has the sailing school that I used to sail/teach at (for the UBC Sailing Club). Nice spot for a picnic.
View of English Bay and Royal Vancouver Yacht Club from Jericho Beach Park.
My favorite spot at UBC is the Museum of Anthropology (parking lot is likely "high-prowl", as my brother-in-law had his camera stolen there). The architecture, views, and collections are stunning. The best news is that you are already slated to see it, as the ICCV'2001 reception will be held there.
UBC Museum of Anthropology: Grand Hall and outdoor totems/lodge
Across the street from the Museum is the Rose Garden, which on a clear day has beautiful views north into Howe Sound and the glaciers on far-away mountains.
View from the UBC Rose Garden (Howe Sound)
My other favorite spot is the Nitobe Japanese Gardens, but I haven't been there in 20 years. I also haven't been down to Wreck Beach, which back then used to have an (unofficial) nudist section.
Map 3: North Shore hikes
If you have more time, it's well worth doing one of the hikes/walks on the North Shore. Take your pick between beautiful city views (and no walking) at Grouse Mountain, a wonderful forested canyon (Lynn Canyon), more city views with the possibility of hiking (Cypress), or beautiful water views (Lighthouse Park).
Grouse Mountain is the most accessible to those who don't have a car. You can take the Sea Bus to North Vancouver from the Waterfront, and then catch a bus to the tramway (Skyride) base. From the top of Grouse, you get wonderful views, and can even have dinner. The funny thing is, I have never yet been there (not even for night skiing), so I can't vouch for anything firsthand :-) .
If you want the thrill of a suspension bridge without paying an admission charge (like at the Capilano Suspension Bridge) and also a gorgeous walk in the woods to boot, head for Lynn Canyon. According to my city map, you drive up Lynn Valley Rd. in North Vancouver, and then look for parking near where it ends. Unfortunately, I've always gone there with friends (who love to let their dogs run around), so I can't vouch for a good parking spot.
If you are driving anywhere north-west on Highway 1 (say to Whistler, or to Lighthouse Park below), you can turn off the highway at Cypress Bowl Rd. and get a spectacular vista of Vancouver (and Mt. Baker, on a clear day) in just a 3 mi. drive (stop at the Highline Lookout, then turn around). If you continue all the way up the mountain, there is good hiking on Hollyburn Mountain, but you will need a hiking book or maps.
View from Cypress Bowl Drive lookout
Just before Cypress Mountain (on Folkestone Way) is probably the most scenic restaurant in Vancouver, the Salmon House on the Hill. Great views of the city, and good seafood done on alder-smoked planks.
This half-hour drive from downtown is well worth it for the views and rocky walking you get. Get a good map if you want to take the fast route on Hwy 1, or just follow Marine Drive all the way from West Vancouver when you get off the Lions Gate bridge. Park the car, and then walk all the way out to Pt. Atkinson through tall trees. From the point, you get wonderful views of Vancouver, UBC (Point Grey), and the Islands. The Point is dotted with wonderfully gnarled Arbutus trees, which appears to be the Canadian name for Madronas (although they are so much smaller, that I'm not sure).
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The Black Tusk |
There are a number of great hikes along Hwy 99 ("Sea to Sky Highway") past Horseshoe Bay towards Squamish and Whistler. The hiking book 103 Hikes in Southwestern British Columbia describes all of these in good detail. My favorites include The Lions (a strenuous hike from Lions Bay -- is there better access now from Cypress?) and the Stawamus Chief near Squamish (huge rock climbing monolith, with a hiking trail up the back). The two-day backpacking trip up to Garibaldi Lake and the Black Tusk is my favorite hike anywhere. A beautiful lake for camping, alpine meadows, and a scary little scramble (no rock climbing experience necessary) through a fissure in the igneous black monolith for a spectacular view (including Whistler and Blackcomb).
If you make it all the way up to Whistler, there are good hikes starting from the town (up Fitzsimmons Creek, and then along the "Musical Bumps" ending at Whistler Peak -- a long day's hike). Or, you can take one of the lifts up to the top for a pleasant alpine meadows meander. You can also go mountain biking, play golf, ...
Victoria is worth a day trip, if you like ferry boat rides. The best thing about going to Victoria (which is a pretty city) is the Butchart Botanical Gardens, which are well worth a half-day visit.
I never did get to explore much of the rest of B.C. The Gulf Island are supposed to be charming, but I never had the time to visit. There is some good hiking in Manning Park and on south into the Pacific Crest trail in the US. The western shores of Vancouver Island are supposed to be spectacular, and the Sunshine Coast (by local ferries north of Howe Sound) is also very picturesque.
Enjoy your stay in Vancouver!
Last updated 7/4/2001 by Richard Szeliski, szeliski@microsoft.com.
